Watches and Wonders 2023: Patek Philippe Patek Philippe has launched a series of stunning timepieces that illustrate just how much it has changed over the past decade.
As the Watches & Wonders Expo opens, visitors flock to Patek Philippe's windows to see the new products released by the watchmaker. That's an impressive list of 17 models. Some are updates to existing models, but there are also several significant new models, including a variant of the Calatrava Ref. 6007 and Calatrava Pilot's Travel Chronograph.
Calatrava Pilot's Travel Time Chronograph Ref. 5924G
The Ref. 100 watch combines a flyback chronograph with a dual time zone function and an analog date display. 5924G represents the ultimate pilot's watch. The flyback chronograph is a feature developed specifically for pilots in the past to help them accurately plot routes and positions. The dual time zone function is another complication originally used on aircraft instrument panels. Now, Patek Philippe combines all three together with a date display to let you know when and where you are.
The Pilot range has come a long way since it was first relaunched in 2015. Travel Time received a smaller size in 2019 and added a sophisticated alarm system. In 2023, Ref. 5924G completes the series of aviation-related complications.
The watch's case is essentially the same as its siblings, and it's available in two white gold versions: a blue-gray sunburst dial (the color of the moody sky) and a military khaki green lacquered dial. Both watches come with leather straps that match the color of their respective dials.
As with all Patek Philippe watches, legibility is very important. So the brand got rid of the second hand because, let's be honest, who really needs that? Two large chronograph counters extend into the center of the dial, displaying the date at 12 o'clock and a 60-minute totalizer at 6 o'clock. The three hands on the dial display local time and home time through solid hands and hollow hands respectively. Two additional windows show the day/night status for each time zone.
The CH 28-520 self-winding in-house chronograph is the basis of this watch movement. The vertically coupled design means the watch runs accurately with or without a chronograph running, so in theory you could use the central chronograph seconds hand as a running seconds hand if you wanted. It has a 45-hour power reserve and is equipped with a silicon escapement, ensuring the anti-magnetic qualities of the movement.
Advanced Complication Watch Ref. 5316/50P-001
Patek Philippe has given its iconic Ref. a makeover, another sign that the brand is changing with the times and updating its designs. 5316/50P-001. First released in 2017, this ultra-complication watch features a black grand feu enamel dial and is a classic interpretation of the minute repeater, perpetual calendar and tourbillon.
This year, Ref. 5316 swaps enamel for sapphire crystal, with a blue metallic effect and black gradient edges. The result is a watch that showcases one of the brand's most complex movements, with its heart clearly visible on the dial. At midnight, the instantaneous perpetual calendar window switches to the next day. To make the watch more casual, the alligator leather is replaced with a calfskin strap with an embossed fabric pattern and contrasting stitching.
The difference between the old and new Ref. 5316 version is extraordinary – two identical watches, but with completely different identities. This is a great example of how a classic can be transformed into a modern one with some great design tweaks.
new calatrava
A new range of Calatrava Ref. 6007s has arrived. If you recall, this watch was first released to commemorate the opening of Patek Philippe's new PP6 factory in 2019. This special edition watch was made of stainless steel, a rarity for a Calatrava watch, and sold out quickly. Now, the next series of watches is made of white gold and comes in even richer colors.
references. 6007G-001, 6007G-010 and 6007G-011 all feature ebony black dials with the same carbon pattern as the original Ref. Provided 6007A-001. But where the latter comes strictly in blue and white (which is already a pretty significant change from past Calatrava models), the new watch features white details and accents of yellow, red, and blue.
Colorful decoration appears on the minute track, the arrow hour indicator on the inner ring of the dial, and the running seconds hand. They're gentle and playful, like a suitably dressed executive adding a pop of color to a suit. The carbon-patterned stitching on the calfskin strap also matches the dial decoration.
In all other respects, little has changed from the original Ref. 6007A. The movement powering this watch is Caliber 26-330 SC, the same movement that powers the Twenty~4 Automatic and many other Patek Philippe chronographs.
The collection also adds a new Calatrava with a feminine touch. referee. The rose gold model 4997/200R-001 features a light burgundy dial decorated with a wavy ring. It is coated with more than 50 layers of translucent lacquer, creating light and dark tones on the dial that play with the cascading light. The gold elongated triangular hour markers point outward rather than inward, adding to the effect of a radial wave pattern spreading outward from the center.
referee. 4997/200R-001 is equipped with one of our favorite ultra-thin movements from Patek Philippe: the Caliber 240, with a micro-rotor to ensure it always runs accurately. The movement offers a two-day power reserve and can be seen through the sapphire case back.
rare handicrafts
Some of the artistic watches released by Patek Philippe this year include the new Ref. 5531G-001 World Time Minute Repeater, now available in white gold. Its predecessor, the rose gold model, has been discontinued.
The watch features a unique synergy between the world time function and the minute repeater, which tells local time instead of home time. It is the only watch of its kind in the world to offer this feature, and Patek Philippe holds the patent for the development of the Caliber R27 HU movement that powers it.
The dial of the watch is decorated with Grand Feu cloisonné enamel and recreates a Belle Epoque steamship that still sails on the waters of Lake Geneva. The Swiss flag flutters prominently in the center of the dial, with the setting sun just behind it, reflecting the summer scenery of lakeside houses.
There is much more than can be covered in one article, but suffice it to say that Patek Philippe has a clear direction in mind as it enters 2023: to provide more products for the next generation of collectors, and by preserving traditional styles. Watches capture their interest. The essence of the brand, while creating a stylish atmosphere that is both cool and collectible.